Pool chemicals, explained
Ten chemicals cover nearly all residential pool care. Each page has a dosing chart by pool size, side effects to watch, and the handling rules that keep it safe.
Sanitizers (raise Free Chlorine)
The workhorse of pool sanitizing: fast-acting, adds no stabilizer and no calcium. Ideal for regular chlorination and shocking pools that already have enough CYA.
The standard granular shock. Strong, unstabilized chlorine โ great for weekly shocking and algae kills where CYA is already sufficient.
Stabilized granular chlorine โ pH-neutral and gentle on surfaces, but every dose also raises your stabilizer. Best for new fills and spas.
The slow-release tablet in your floater. Convenient steady chlorination, but it acidifies the water and stacks CYA over a season โ plan around both.
Balance (pH & Alkalinity)
The alkalinity raiser. 1.4 lb per 10,000 gallons lifts TA by 10 ppm. Low TA makes pH bounce around โ fix TA first, then chase pH.
The pH raiser. pH chemistry is non-linear, so treat doses as starting points: ~6 oz per 10,000 gallons raises pH about 0.2 when alkalinity is near 100 ppm.
The pH (and alkalinity) reducer. Cheap and effective, but the most dangerous bottle on your shelf โ the safety rules are not optional.
Protection (Stabilizer, Calcium, Salt)
Sunscreen for your chlorine: without 30โ50 ppm CYA, UV burns off outdoor-pool chlorine in hours. But it only goes up โ dose carefully.
Protects plaster and equipment: water below ~200 ppm calcium is aggressive and pulls calcium out of plaster, grout and heat exchangers.
For saltwater-generator pools: most cells want ~3,200 ppm. A typical 10,000-gallon fresh fill needs roughly 265 lb of salt to get there.